How to make a Frame

How to make a simple but elegant frame.

by Mel Rumsey

I Started many years ago making frames here and there for things my wife would hang in our home. Family and friends would ask if I could make them frames, and for a while I sold them. Over time, my methods of making these frames improved… mostly by learning the hard way and having to find better ways of putting them together. The most improvement came while I was selling frames at a photo studio. The owner of the studio would take displays around as she traveled to show her work. She was the sort who was hasty in her packing, and the frames were put through “rigorous product testing”. After repairing several frames that had broken or come apart at the corners, I really had to find better ways to do it that would hold up to the abuse of any type of use.
I have sold, displayed, and competed with my “wood burned” art and needed good framing and the most cost effective way to frame is to do it yourself. In Art competitions, a large part of the judging is always the presentation… in other words, the framing. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that my frames have been a hit with the judges, and have helped many of my pieces win in shows. I also have been asked by many woodworkers how I make my frames. This is a big compliment since most of them have been much better wood craftsmen than I. Since the frames I make seem to be my strong point in woodworking, this seems to be the best thing I can share with other wood workers.
To some most of this may seem old hat, but so many fellow craftsmen have asked about my frames I think there may be some here who will enjoy it. If I can make frames that are admired by others with my limited knowledge and scary tools, anyone can.

Step 1: Cut the pieces.

I cut all my sides at 45 degrees at ½” shorter than the picture size, i.e. an 8x10 would be 7 ½” x 9 ½“. This is the measurement of the inside cut or the short side, so depending on the thickness of the trim you are using, the “long side” would be longer, and vary in length. The inside is the one to measure, and it is based on the size of the piece to be framed. I use a chop saw to make the cuts, but it could be done with a table saw. I also cut two pieces together and keep them paired if I am making several frames. This insures that the two sides are exactly the same length, which will help keep the seam at the corners tight.

Step 2: Cut the relief.

I make the cuts on my table saw for the relief that will hold the piece being framed. How deep into the frame you want the relief is up to you, but I try to leave at least an 1/8” thick trim. The cut must be ¼“ deep into the frame. This is where you gain back the extra ½“ we took from the sides. I make the first cut in all four sides, then make the adjustments on the saw and do the second cut. As most of you know, this will keep all of your cuts consistent.

Step 3: Build the frame.

Now I put the frame together. There are many methods of securing a frame, and many methods of securing the corners together; this is where I can give you what has been my experience to develop my own method.
However you secure your frame, just be sure that it is not only square, but flat. I made this bracket for doing frames that makes it a little easier for me, but there are many methods that work just as well or better. I put the frame face down on the surface I am clamping to, to insure that the front of the frame will be flat, even if the wood varies slightly in thickness. I glue the corners together, because it does add to the stability of the finished frame.
I clamp the frame down at all four corners tightly, then add clamps to press the frame together. You may have to move and adjust clamps as you secure each corner together, to make room for your drill.

Secure the corners:

The most significant part of my method is the way I secure the corners. As I mentioned, this was from a lot of trial and error, and this is the best and strongest method I have found to do the job. I have used staples, framing brackets, nails, dadoes, and I think I will be sticking with this final method.
I use a tool (the mini Kreg pocket-hole kit) that I purchased through Lee Valley that makes this much easier. It was only around $20 and was well worth getting, but you can also use a drill bit to do the same thing. (If you use a drill bit you have to drill straight down and get a good hole started, then using that starter hole drill at an angle as flat as you can toward the corner. You just want to be careful not to have your screw come out the front of the frame, which I have done, and the guide helps resolve that problem.)
I try to use at least two screws per corner, to keep the frame corners from being able to pivot. I find the glue gives it just enough added strength that the gap stays tight. Give the wood glue time to set and then remove the frame from the clamps.

Step 4: The often skipped.

I am often asked by fellow hobbyists how I get my corners fitted without a gap in the corner. Most hobbyists don’t like the steps they think are not necessary, but any of the professionals I have ever sought advice from never take shortcuts.
Never underestimate the power of putty. It certainly helps to do the best you can to get your pieces to fit well together, but there will always be a slight gap. To see a slight line after I paint is acceptable to me, but to ever have a gap or “crack” in the seam is not. I always use a little putty in the corners even if they appear not to need it. Let me not fail to mention the obvious, wait for the putty to dry.

Step 5: Sanding.

Sand the frame as well as you want to. I am sure there are many opinions on this but I find around 250 to be smooth enough. Many won’t bother, and it is certainly unnecessary, but I usually sand a bit on the back as well. When someone examines your work, what you do that is never seen speaks volumes for the quality of your work. People are always impressed if the back of the frame looks clean and nice.

Step 6: The router.

If you don’t have a router table, this step can be skipped. When I started making these frames, I didn’t have one and I would edge them with a simple 45 degree cut, or not at all. One of the four frame styles I make for people who order custom art from me has no routed edge.
The reason I do this step after the frame is together is that by doing it this way, the edges at the corners line up perfectly, you don’t have to line up the cuts while you build the frame.

Step 7: The cut.

Here is a very simple technique that I think has been one of the biggest reasons for the success of my frames. About ¾ to an inch into the frame from the corner, (or edge of the routed cut) I make a cut with the table saw about 1/8” deep. (or slightly less depending on the depth of the routed cut, you don’t want to be any deeper than that, but not much less either.) I cut along each of the faces of all four sides. The cuts will cross each other at the corners. You want to be sure your blade is sharp or it tends to splinter at the corners. (I told you it was simple, but it really adds something to the frame.)

Step 8: Finishing.

Part A: I always make one final round of sanding before I paint. I actually just get .99 cent paint at Wal Mart. Black is the most popular color by far because it is neutral, matches everything, and for my pyrographed art work it really looks the best… that part wont matter, but dark frames are always showier.
Here is another thing I learned the hard way… If you are going to add a clear coat after you paint, (which I very highly recommend) ALWAYS use flat paint. I had such a problem with my paint crackling when I would add the clear coat, and it took me forever to figure out what was going wrong… Don’t have gloss in any undercoating. I hope that saves you the headache I went through. Some of you could have told me that, but I learned another thing the hard way.
I sand between coats, but especially after the first coat with 300 to 400 grain sand paper. As most good finishers can tell you, as one told me, the first coat of paint or stain will always pull out the grain when it dries. You get a much smoother finish if you sand between coats, and it makes a big difference. (That bit of advice has helped me with all my wood projects.)

Part B: now I antique all the edges using a rough grain sand paper along all of the outside edges. I have to rotate the paper often to prevent the paint that sticks to the paper to put color back into the wood.
Here is another easy little method of really making the frame pop, and the second part to the cut made earlier. To antique the edges of the cut we made, I take a ¼“ piece of dowel, and wrap a small piece of sand paper around it. The dowel helps me guide the paper along the cut, and it only makes contact with the edges of the cut. This gives you a sharp looking double line antiqued parallel to the edges. Inventive, simple, and looks very nice. I won’t be surprised to find out that someone has also done this… most of my original ideas I learn that someone else did it long before.

Part C: Now it is time for the clear coat. Now the cheap stuff really won’t work too well at this point. I like the Krylon Matte finish, it will be between 3 and 5 dollars. Although everyone thinks they want a shiny frame, the matte finish is really the nicest looking way to clear coat these wood frames. It will help hide any blemishes in the frame, and you get a classy shine instead of one that slaps you in the face when you look at it. Most clients of mine will always say they want gloss, until they look at two frames side by side.
Brush, wipe, or blow off all of the paint dust. I usually spray on two coats of finish. There may be other ways to finish, and this isn’t the best method or finish types for furniture, but it works great on these frames.

You can see that this would work with any wood you want to use, and you could stain in rather than paint, but you do loose the antique effect and I wouldn’t go overboard on the putty because it will show on your finished frame if you stain.

Other Finishes

Optional Finish: Another finish I do that was a non-original… original idea, is my “burned” finish. This is a look I haven’t seen anywhere else except poorly done on a few crafts.
I burn it with a torch and it gives it a very unique look. I don’t like doing frames but I do have clients that request these of me just to match art, or because they love the look and don’t know where else to get it.
Although there isn’t much to the idea, there are some techniques that will help it look nice when you are done.
1. Pine. Although other woods would work, because of it’s color and two very distinct densities of grain, pine works very well for this.
2. Take notice of the grain when choosing your wood. The burning really makes the grains more prominent, too small or too large of grain won’t look as good. You want it also to be consistent, a frame that has a 4” border won’t look as nice if two sides have 6 grain lines and two sides have three.
3. Keep the torch moving. This is the touchy part. Think of it like painting with a spray gun, keep moving all the time. It is too easy to get a blotchy look by over burning in spots. Make passes horizontally along the side you are burning. I usually don’t see the effect begin until about the third pass. Make as many passes as you need to until it is as dark as you want, but keep it moving. If a small area needs to be darker, do it like you would a spray gun, make your pass over the area like a plane landing and taking off… just keep it moving. The constant movement is how you will get a consistent burn.
4. Let it cool. You would hate any hot embers to ignite your finish.
5. A coat of stain will always make a big difference, and make the burned effect really pop. The color will be a bit different on these burned frames than it usually looks on the wood. Miniwax – Ipswich is the color that seems to go over the best with these frames when I sell them (it doesn’t look like the color on the can, so you’ll have to trust me). I lightly sand it with 300-400 grain paper, and then add at least two coats of polyurethane or polycrylic. The final coat is the same matte finish I use for my painted frames. (Krylon) and Krylon also makes a UV protectant spray (sprayed on last.) that I use on these because these burned frames are very sensitive to sunlight, which will fade the burn. (Something I learned as a pyrographer.)

Another popular finish is this western theme which is created using heavy craft/scrap-booking paper. It is cut to the pattern and another piece with the same pattern about 1/8 to 1/4" smaller is placed over the first. The paper is glued on and over coated with Mod-Podge. All these items can be purchased at most local craft supply stores.

Many of you are better woodworkers than I am and already have methods you prefer, but I hope some of you find this helpful. Unfortunately this little tutorial contains about all of the wood working wisdom I have. Have fun, and let me know how it works for those who try it, Mel.